Top 5 Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced

The Rolex Submariner is arguably the most successful timepiece collection created by the Rolex brand. Collectors and industry experts often name this Submariner collection as the most popular timepiece ever made, thanks to its instantly recognizable design. In fact, when most people think of a Rolex, the Submariner is typically the picture they have in mind.

Originally built as a tool watch for the Scuba diving niche, the Submariner has evolved significantly to transcend into other industries. Sports people, Hollywood celebrities, Hip-Hop stars, and even business people now wear the Submariner, all thanks to the many varieties of this timepiece that Rolex has rolled out over the years.

The Rolex Submariner is now 70 years old, which means there are now dozens of dozens of this iconic diver’s watch on the market. This makes the idea of picking the top five Submariner models almost impossible. It’s a subject that’ll likely spark a raging debate since people tend to have different opinions about what should be considered the best. Comparing the references based on Rolex Submariner price isn’t also very practical since prices tend to fluctuate based on various factors.

For this article, we have selected our top five Rolex Submariner references based on how interesting these models are and how significant they were to the evolution of the Submariner collection.

Submariner Ref. 6204

There’s no better way to start a list of the top Submariner timepieces than with the watch that started it all – the very first Submariner Ref 6204. While Rolex began making Submariner watches in 1953, the Ref 6204 was the first one officially presented to the public in 1954. The same year, Rolex also released the equally iconic Ref. 6200 (also known as the King Sub) and Ref. 6205.

The Ref. 6204’s claim to fame isn’t just the fact that it was the first Submariner to hit the market. It is also renowned for its impressive appearance and rugged utilitarian design. The 6204 had one of the simple dial layouts you’ll ever find on any Submariner timepiece.

Another impressive attribute of this timepiece is the emphasis on its practical design. The Submariner was intended to be a diver’s watch, and there was no better watch to introduce this idea to the general public than a timepiece built like an actual tool watch. It featured a modest 37mm case but was built to be water-resistant to a depth of 5.3mm.

The two versions of this Submariner timepiece were powered by the A260 and A296 automatic movements. The size of these calibers gave the watches a rounded shape. Consequently, the original Submariners were famously nicknamed the Bubble Back Subs, a nickname consistent with their maritime theme. The 6204 subs also featured a dive bezel with a diving scale but no hash marks like later models.

Submariner ref. 5512

The Ref. 5512 is an iconic Submariner reference because it was the first redesign of the Submariner collection. This new design was introduced in 1959, and the result was a Submariner that looked a lot like the modern version of the timepiece that people are familiar with today.

Some of the design updates implemented with Ref. 5512 include a size upgrade from the initial 37mm to a 40mm case. The watch also came with a bigger crown that measured 7mm and had crown guards. Rolex introduced beveled lugs and bezel inserts with the familiar hash marks with this reference. The ref. 5512 was in production until 1980, when Rolex eventually discontinued it.

This timepiece shares many physical similarities with the ref. 5513 timepiece, which was released around the same time. However, while the ref 5512 was chronometer-certified, the 5513 wasn’t.  Consequently, Rolex added the famous “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” text to the 5512 dial to differentiate both models. However, there are many versions of this reference without this text.

With so many variants of this timepiece produced between 1959 and 1980, Rolex used several movements in Ref. 5512. Some of the calibers used include Calibers 1530, 1560 and 1570. Today, the Submariner Ref 5512 is still considered one of the most important Submariner models because it created the template for the Submariner design that we have come to know and fall in love with.

Submariner 16610

The Rolex Submariner 16610 is one of the most recognizable vintage watches in the world. In fact, this timepiece is so popular that it is frequently counterfeited. The Ref 16610 was released in 1988 and remained in production until 2010, when it was eventually replaced by the Ref 116610.

Actor Timothy Dalton wore the Submariner Ref 16610  timepiece for the James Bond movie “License to Kill.” The timepiece also had some very peculiar design characteristics that made it quite remarkable in the Submariner lineup. For instance, this Submariner reference marks Rolex’s transition from acrylic glass to the Sapphire crystal that has become the standard feature on Rolex watches nowadays.

However, the main reason why the Ref 16610 deserves a place on this list is that it is considered a bridge between the vintage and modern eras of the Submariner. On a superficial level, it is the first Submariner with a five-digit reference number (instead of the four digits used in older timepieces).

More than just changing the naming convention, Rolex also demonstrated a real desire to make its dive watches into true luxury items with the Ref. 16610. It is a durable and sporty timepiece with a water resistance depth of up to 300 meters (one of the first with this spec). But it was also good enough to be worn to black tie events thanks to an updated date design, a wearable 40mm case size, and several recognizable quirks of the modern Submariner.

Submariner Ref. 1680

The Ref. 1680 is one of the most important Submariner models. It was introduced to the public in 1966, and its production lasted until 1979. This timepiece reference is famous for a lot of things, and that’s not just the fact that it debuted the date complication on the Submariner.

First, it is the only Submariner Date model to feature a bidirectional bezel. It is also the only date-displaying model with an acrylic crystal (instead of Sapphire). But the most notable fact of all is that this reference introduced the famous Cyclops magnifying lens on the data window for Rolex watches. This lens soon became a standard feature in many other Rolex watches (and timepieces from other watchmakers with a date feature.

The magnifying crystal on the original Ref. 1680 was quite prominent. In fact, it was so prominent that collectors gave it the nickname “Top Hat’ crystal” because it protruded up to 3mm above the case. Another nickname associated with this Submariner reference is “Red Sub.” It was called the Red Sub because a few series in the reference had the Submariner text printed in red.

Finally, this Submariner reference was the first to come in a precious metal. Rolex introduced a full-gold version of the Ref. 1680 in 1969. The full gold watch came in two versions: a black dial and bezel version and a blue dial and bezel version.

Submariner Ref. 5513

The Submariner 5513 was in production around the same time as the equally iconic reference 5512 mentioned earlier, and neither lived in the shadow of the other despite being nearly identical. One of the main differences between them is that the Submariner 5513 featured a movement that was non-chronometer-certified.

The Submariner Ref. 5513 is one of the famous Rolex Bond watches. This is the biggest claim to fame for this Submariner reference, which was worn by more than one James Bond character in different movies.

Roger More, who played Bond in Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun, wore the Submariner Ref 5513 in each of these movies. It was also one of two Rolex watches worn by George Lazenby in his outing as 007 On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.

The Submariner 5513 had some notable features that made it instantly recognizable. The most prominent feature was the pyramid-shaped shoulder (which was changed to rounded shoulders in later versions) to protect the winding mechanism. The ref. 5513 was the first Rolex timepiece to feature this crown protector.

Conclusion

With so many spectacular Submariner models, it’s difficult to narrow the list down to the top five. The references listed in this article are probably not the most expensive or even the most popular, but each one is iconic in its own right and represents important milestones in the collection’s evolution over the past seven decades. If you’re considering buying an Iconic Submariner for your collection, any of these references will be an excellent addition to the list.